The following response was written by Henriette Schmidt who has long been involved in showing, breeding and training English Springer Spaniels. While each breed has its own, specific health, genetic, temperament and performance considerations, the same careful thought and responsible actions should be taken.
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Q: I have a 1 year old female English Springer Spaniel. She is a very good pet and a few of my friends have said they may be interested in a pup from her if I have her bred. Can you give me some idea of what I need consider before I decide to breed my dog?
A: You must determine two things before you breed your dog. Is she breeding quality? Are you willing to be a quality breeder? You seem to be on track in both areas by choosing to ask and learn what is involved. You also are beginning your research in a timely manner as it is inappropriate to breed a female before she is 2 years old.
Your dog’s hips cannot be OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) certified as normal before 2 years of age. As her body is still changing and maturing, a definitive opinion on hip joint soundness cannot be given earlier. But, as you’re considering the breed/spay question now, it may be worth having a preliminary X-ray done at this point. While good hips at one year do not guarantee OFA certification at age 2, if hips are not good now, you can have her spayed without going through unnecessary "seasons". Two problems result from breeding a female with hip dysplasia. In addition to spreading the defect into future generations, the physical demands of carrying a litter put extra stress on her hip joints, affecting her future comfort and performance.
The second basic genetic health screening necessary is having her eyes determined normal by a board certified veterinary ophthalmologist (AVCO member). Dogs used for breeding should have their eyes checked annually. Puppies should have their eyes checked before they are sold, too. (Do you know the soundness histories of her parents, grandparents and siblings? Their soundness increases the chances that your female will pass these tests.) General robust good health, not just negative bruccellosis and stool checks, is also imperative. Freedom from digestive and skin problems and allergies, seizures, etc., are all important aspects to consider before breeding.
Did you purchase your dog as breeding quality? If you bought her as "just a pet" and got what you paid for, you have no complaint. Being a pet is an important vocation in itself. Being AKC registered does NOT infer an animal is of breeding quality. It only verifies all her predecessors were the same breed. They may each have been the best, or the worst, of their litters from many generations. Do you have her pedigree? If not, you will want the AKC or someone who advertises pedigree service to research at least three generations. Do any of the names in the pedigree have titles? The letters CH, FC, AFC, and NFC preceding names indicate conformation or field trial championships. The letters CD, CDX, UD, UDT, UDX, TD, TDX, NA, OA, AX, MX, JH, SH, or MH after a name represent obedience, tracking, agility or hunting titles. Have you considered working toward any such accomplishments with your dog to make her pups more desirable? (Note: There are additional titles offered for other breeds, events, and clubs/registries, this is just a sampling of AKC performance titles that are available to English Springer Spaniels, etc.)
It is important that your dog is a very good pet. Just how good is her temperament? If she found a "treasure" that she wanted to keep, but shouldn’t have, took it under a table or bed, and didn’t come out when called, could you safely take it from her? Having puppies is stressful. An over protective pet is no fun to deal with. A female with an "iffy" personality is more likely to "go over the edge" with a litter than to "settle down", as people used to believe.
Besides acting like a proper English Springer Spaniel, is she immediately recognizable as a fine representative of her breed? It’s not just a matter of "pretty", but of essential functional structure. That’s what determines how comfortable she, and her pups, can carry out the work they are bred for in the field, in the ring or in your home.
The choice of a sire for a litter is a significant concern. Obviously, the same stringent physical criteria need to be applied to him, too. Additionally, does the male compensate for the weak points of your female? As perfect as she seems to you, every dog has weak points. Will the sire’s owner help you with information, advice and puppy referrals?
Proper nutrition of the dam and pups is essential, and Springer puppies eat a lot from four to 10 weeks. But, pups need much more than feeding and cleaning. They need much play space and individual attention to develop properly physically and mentally. Puppies that can play outside part of each day are easiest to care for. A winter litter is something most people are not equipped to handle. Pups have the same amount of energy in winter as in summer, but usually, have fewer ways to safely or productively use it up.
I personally expect pups not to be placed in their new homes until about 10 weeks of age, after having at least two inoculations and being wormed, if that is necessary. They should be personality tested at seven to eight weeks, and eyes should be checked at eight to 10 weeks.
Be aware that there are always health risks in breeding. While English Springer Spaniels are usually easy whelpers and good mothers, anything can happen. It’s wise to get a cost estimate from your veterinarian for an emergency Cesarean section delivery, as well as the routine expenses of the post-whelping checkup, tail docking, declaw removal, worming, immunizations and eye checks.
Being strong as a breeder takes more than a strong back. Can you stick to your guns and not let people choose pups at two or three weeks of age, before personality differences can determine suitability? Do you have the resolve to turn down a cash-in-hand prospective purchaser if he’s not right for that, or any, puppy, even though the puppy is eating you out of house and home. You must expect some pups to still be with you at three to four months of age. Will you hold to a responsible price and not just "unload" pups? Will you be available to offer the counsel that new owners will continue to need as their pups get older? Will you take one back if an allergy problem surfaces in the new owner’s family? Creating these new lives requires a breeder to have a lifelong obligation for their welfare. Will you responsibly refund, replace, take back or help find a new home for a pup if a significant problem appears or things just don’t work out as the pup grows up.
Friends have said they may be interested in a pup. Did they say they were interested in buying one? Often they think they’ll be doing a favor by taking one off your hands, free of charge. With the expenses your responsible decisions have incurred, you can see why you can’t afford that. Also, people often value possessions according to what they’ve paid for them. Free dogs often become homeless at the first inconvenience they cause. Their owners know there is always someone else giving away another free dog if they want one later. Perhaps the timing of your litter turns out to be bad for your friends as they didn’t want a pup in spring, summer, fall, winter, this year, until the baby is older, etc.
Does the world need your litter of puppies? Realize that there are more dogs than good homes for them. If I can be sure that a litter that I’m a party to will be healthier, more pleasant, more useful, and therefore, more desirable than the unwanted pups being killed in their place, I can justify that litter being born. If the aforementioned criteria are not met, then I believe dogs already alive at shelters, etc., deserve a chance at the available homes. At times, being a responsible breeder means not breeding.
Much hard work follows the decision to breed your dog. Much hard thinking needs to be done before you decide to breed your dog.
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